A Day on Safari – 18 On The Hill
Photo Essay · Maseke Reserve, Greater Kruger · South Africa
A morning to sunset journey through the Maseke Reserve.
Safari days begin quietly. Just before sunrise, the bush begins to stir - birds calling in the distance, the low hum of a Landcruiser engine, and the first light slowly lifting over the Maseke Reserve.
“The bush will show you something new every day,” our guide Dan tells us as we wind through the dips and turns of this undulating corner of the Greater Kruger.
All we have to do is wait, watch, and listen for what the bush has in store.
Some of the most sought after wildlife sightings across the African continent are the most elusive - and the leopard is perhaps the best example of that.
Early in our drive, just as the rising sun begins to cast long shadows across the tiny ridges of the red dirt trails, we spotted the fresh prints of a big cat.
Dan pulls the cruiser to a stop and climbs down for a closer look, reading the story left behind in the sand to understand what passed through here - and where it might be heading.
It was certainly a leopard that had passed along the same road we were travelling, and we followed the trail as far as we could before it disappeared into the long grass and thick bush beyond.
With the tracks lost to the thicket, we decided it was time to find a scenic place to stop the cruiser and partake in one of safari’s most cherished traditions - the morning coffee stop.
To Dan, that means a “Ranger Special”: coffee, hot chocolate, and (for us guests) a far-too-generous pour of South Africa’s beloved cream liqueur, Amarula.
With warm bellies and slightly lighter heads we slowly began making our way back toward camp. Nothing is ever quite as straightforward as it seems on safari though, and before long we rounded a bend to find a herd of elephant cows and their young spread across the road ahead.
Dust rose softly around them as they covered themselves in sand from the dry riverbed, protecting their skin from pests and the heat of the African sun. They watched our cruiser with calm curiosity as the youngest members of the herd rested safely in the shadows of the towering females around them.
Being awake since well before the crack of dawn meant the thought of a midday rest was too tempting to ignore. Eventually we left the elephants to their morning routine and returned to camp for breakfast, followed by a few quiet hours escaping the midday heat before the next adventure began.
Not long after settling into the afternoon drive we encountered a herd of buffalo slowly crossing the landscape. At first it seemed like no more than a few dozen animals, but for what felt like an eternity more black silhouettes continued to emerge from the bush and drift across the road ahead. Finally the last rickety old bulls crossed, and we were on our way again.
Not every moment in the bush is dramatic - often it’s the small discoveries along the way that stay with you. Safari guides have an incredible attunement with the living world around them, and even something as innocuous as a feather on the side of the road can tell a story if you know how to listen.
As the afternoon cools and the golden light returns, the search begins for the perfect place to stop for sundowners.
Along the way we pass a giraffe moving quietly through the bush and pause to watch it strip the highest branches from an acacia tree beside the road.
Eventually we stop on a hilltop overlooking the distant Drakensberg mountains and open the cooler to investigate what we’ll be sipping as the sun disappears behind the peaks.
Sundowners are something of a sacred ritual on safari.
A chance to slow down, share stories from the day, and reflect on the privilege of experiencing some of the most remarkable landscapes and wildlife on earth - with a gin & tonic in hand, and all while the African sun slowly disappears below the horizon.
As the last light fades behind the hills we climb back into the cruiser and begin the slow drive back to camp, the bush settling into its evening chorus around us.
It’s a rhythm you quickly learn on safari — long quiet stretches punctuated by moments you’ll remember forever. And tomorrow, before the sun rises over the Maseke Reserve once again, we’ll be out there ready to do it all again.
Stay at 18 On The Hill
If you’re interested in experiencing the Maseke Reserve for yourself, you can learn more about 18 On The Hill Safari Camp and their safari experiences at the links below.
Photographed at 18 On The Hill Safari Lodge, Maseke Game Reserve, Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa.
